They're rolling out the catwalks, they're stitching on the last sequins, they're papping, flashing, adjusting focus, so strap your feet in tight and go tackle the cobblestones at Somerset House... welcome to London Fashion Week SS15!
I took my trusty SLR with me and got some really cool street snaps. It may seem a bit silly that people dress so drastically for these events when they would never dream of wearing anything similar on a normal day. I think that there are very few people who actually dress the same for fashion events as they do to pop to get the groceries (and social acceptance is to blame here), but rather than responding with criticism or scorn, I actually feel very passionately about people exaggerating their personal styles at fashion week. I think that it is imperative that we have these events and locations to act as a little hub where we feel we can truly express ourselves and our own unique styles. It is really amazing to see all the different ideas and combinations that people can come up with when they are safe from the judgement of normal every day life. It's a real shame that we are coerced into toning ourselves down and feel that we need to hide behind a fragment of our true selves as a result of taboos and the unspoken rules of society. I love to see pure creativity and so I had so much fun walking around and seeing everybody's outfits. Take a look!
Regarding the catwalks themselves, I can't pretend that so far I haven't been a little bit disappointed. There are quite a few designers that I'm really looking forward to seeing because I fell in love with them in February, and I'm unhappy to admit that the most of the ones I saw on Friday I found lacking...
Let's start on a positive note though - Bora Aksu!
BORA AKSU AW14
The images above in the AW14 collection seemed to me reminiscent of a country, peasant, Amish sort of look what with the braided hair tied with ribbons, large collars and clean, white tones. I really loved this look when paired with leather fabrics, darker colours and modern cuts. I was excited to see Bora Aksu in September after seeing these beautiful creations, however when I read that his SS15 collection was inspired by Grimm fairytales and the darker side to background characters such as the step-sisters in Cinderella, I became even more intrigued. Though I felt the designs could have been darker and more twisted, the garments that appeared on the runway was just as pleasing as the previous collection...
BORA AKSU SS15
I really liked the way that the overlapping fragments of lace created sharp, jagged patterns that made some of the garments appear torn, as if the fabric had been slashed. Aprons, light headpieces and collars were sweet additions that tied in nicely with the theme whilst remaining consistent with some of the features in the previous collection. I was also pleased to see a colour/pattern combination that I really love and am slowly seeing more of which I describe as 'china white.' Think porcelain; it is white and blue with delicate, intricate patterns that often include symmetrical or repetitive motifs. For some examples have a peek at my 'china white' board on Pinterest here: http://www.pinterest.com/joannastefanick/china-white/
Now Daks was another collection that I fell totally in love with in February. Military jackets, tartan, cable knits, brogues, fur... what's not to love?! I also adored the way in which it was so British and I have a weakness for military-inspired clothing from additions as small as brass buttons or lapels to full khaki trench coats.
Unfortunately I feel that the SS15 collection has lost some of the vivacious and striking feel that was so rife in the previous one. Although I like the clothing and smart tailoring and I understand that lighter fabrics are required for this season, I was nowhere near as blown away with it as with the amazing clothes we saw for AW14. Looking at the two image boards for the two seasons, it is difficult to see any correlation or similarity between them. Fresh ideas are, of course, mandatory however I feel that all designers should try to capture the same energy in all their designs and have recurring factors to maintain a strong brand identity.
JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA AW14
Another designer who blew me away at AW14 was Jean-Pierre Braganza. His collection has lodged in my mind as 'historical space age.' This is due to the combination of old, baroque-style paintings printed on shiny, metallic fabrics and distorted with ties at the waist. I also loved the long, scrunched up leather gloves which reminded me very much of Sylvia Weis: Amanda Seyfried's character in the film 'In Time.' I was really excited with the amazing patterns and shapes that featured in this collection and was really intrigued to see what Jean-Pierre Braganza would come up with for his next season.
JEAN-PIERRE BRAGANZA SS15
This collection seemed to focus a bit more on geometric designs, however there were a few hints of some really beautiful patterns coming through. I quite liked the collection as a whole, but I do prefer the AW14 garments as I feel these designs explored something more unique and interesting. I do really like the way this designer plays with paintings or photographs and adds his own twist to them by flipping or rotating or multiplying them on a single garment. This can create something really quirky and results in the fabric being pleasing both from up close when you are able to observe the intricate details, but also from afar when the image merges to create a different looking pattern entirely.
I had expected to feel more passionately about many of the collections, however there were some truly outstanding pieces and really inspiring features that we will definitely see slowly filtering their way down through to high street shops. Day one of five is over, but there is plenty more to look forward to!
Labels: Bora Aksu, collection, Daks, fashion, Jean Pierre Braganza, London, London Fashion Week, SS15, trends