Wow, these just keep getting better and better! Day 4 - another 10 hours worth of fabulous cuts, layers of detail and an array of spectacular talent.
|ANTONIO BERARDI AW15|
Antonio Berardi's previous collections were very pleasing with some interesting ideas and motifs, however I feel that this year he has and truly surpassed himself by taking his style to the next level. Peplum elements, frills, wide pleats and layers gave soft silks density and strength. Stunning golden leaves were swathed in lilac, silvery florals revealed flashes of hot pink linings and satin teals exposed glimpses of sparkling lurex. The cuts and tailoring were tight and sculpted with tapered or lightly flared smart trousers, neat scoop or a-symmetrical necklines and clinched waists. Antonio Berardi's skill with the use of silks is amazing; even a simple grey skater dress became mesmerising. His sensitive approach to this rich fabric kept it from leaning too far towards extravagance. This was a truly spectacular collection bursting with beautiful colours and elegant silhouettes.
Roksanda Ilincic is another designer who I feel has really come a long way. As with Antonio Berardi, her collections were always great, but this year she's really stepped it up a notch. I feel that her combination of colours was just stellar. I'm not a huge fan of overloaded colours; I tend to stick to a minimal palette of black and one or two other tones, but with the use of those ever-enticing contrasting colours, Roksanda's collection was a genius of succulent hue harmony. These bright shades were made even more luscious by the use of fur and large, gold clinched belts. Gridlines or 'splodgy' stripes were common features, chemise or A-line were the prime cuts and predominant necklines consisted of funnel fur collars or turtlenecks. Turtlenecks have featured in almost every collection so far, so this is definitely a trend to watch.
I love Burberry catwalks because they're so laid back and fun with live music, silver streamers for the final walk and a FROW with the likes of cheery Cara Delevingne and Paloma Faith. This season's collection continued the Seventies vibe, teeming with tan suede fringes on ankle boots, capes and entire garments. It also leaned a little further back to incorporate a Sixties 'peace and love' vibe with bohemian florals and floaty dresses. Velvet shearling jackets in shades of teal, tan and khaki sat atop a sea of mosaic mirror embellishments and voluminous patterned capes and long, narrow Burberry plaid scarves hung low to skim the tops of suede, patchwork over-the-knee boots... a true kaleidoscope of pattern, colours and design.
|BURBERRY PRORSUM AW15|
Christopher Kane now officially has a special place in my heart due to the amount of velvet in this collection; I adore this amazingly soft fabric and am desperate to get myself a velvet suit, possibly in midnight blue... mmmmm! Neat jackets boasted brightly coloured velvet collars, lapels and pockets in bold blues, red and oranges. Necklines were predominantly high and scooped with tight, structured tailoring prevailing throughout. Large, long slouchy jumpers followed floaty layers of sheer chiffon with delicate patterns. Hints of a grid-like crocodile print followed variations of zigzags, narrow metallic pleats and intertwining shapes. A lot of these shapes appeared twig-like or like nothing more than blocks of colour, but have a look at the far image. Look again or click to enlarge... I know right! Racey.
|CHRISTOPHER KANE AW15|
Giles was another show which proved fun and entertaining; there was a relaxed atmosphere with the FROW singing along and models dancing and twirling down the catwalk. I often feel that catwalks should be more interactive and varying; surely we ought to have surpassed the times of a simple stroll there and back by now! Giles' collection featured an abundance of frills and ruffles with high collars, wide cuffs and plenty of bows. Paired with a predominantly dark palette, it was rather Victorian-esque. Through the folds of sumptuous velvet capes and narrow pleated sheer skirts we were able to glimpse fragments of a beautiful portrait painting print. Looking closer at intricate patterned motifs revealed knotted metallic threads with florals, branches and mushrooms. The collection as a whole seemed very rich and opulent with large silk bows in flashes of bright orange, feathered elements and layers of dark, patterned fabrics; beautiful!
All photos from Vogue UK
Labels: Antonio Berardi, Autumn/Winter, AW15, bohemian, Burberry, cape, catwalk, Christopher Kane, collections, colour scheme, florals, fur, Giles, LFW, London Fashion Week, Roksanda, Seventies, Sixties, suede, Victorian