Do you guys even remember me?! It's been so long since I posted! Another LFW season has come to a close and I didn't even flood your feed with daily reports on each collection! No need to get in a tizz though; I simply decided this time that I'd take a little step back and review the collections once fashion week was over. I've also just finished a very intense 4-week internship at LOVE magazine, so I was super busy and unfortunately had to take a step back from The Fashion Parade (literally - I was running around all over London in a pair of old jeans and flats. FLATS I tell you. I've been making up for it by wearing stilettos to bed...) but I'm back in business, and what better way to start up than by reviewing a host of exciting new collections?
I've finally come to the realisation that I much prefer Autumn/Winter fashion. There is so much scope for layering and techniques and fabrics! I always thought I was a sunny kinda girl, but the more I look at fur-trimmed cashmere mocha capes draped smoothly over thick terracotta cable knits with over-the-knee tasselled burgundy boots and brocaded scarves in shades of rust and burnt umber, the more I can't help but be slightly disappointed with the pellucid flimsiness of Spring/Summer. There is something deeper and darker about AW trends and though SS is a lovely fresh breath of tulle and lace air, I have found that the AW collections fill me with greater levels of excitement.
|BFC SHOW SPACE - BREWER STREET CAR PARK|
That is not to say that there weren't some lovely concepts explored on the catwalks this season. Re-located from Somerset House after six years to Brewer's Street Car Park, this season I had the amazing opportunity to go to the Gareth Pugh Show as well as Temperley London. These were two of my favourite collections last season so I was really looking forward to witnessing first hand what they'd come up with for SS16. Since February I'd been dreaming of Alice Temperley's breathtaking cerulean and gold brocade gowns. Though her SS collection featured similar floral motifs with the same type of long, narrow scarves thrust in, it was overall (naturally) much lighter and airier, and through this it lost something of its charm. Delicate in a waif-like prairie kind of way, the collection used a predominantly light palette and cuts were loose and carefree with a generous splattering of embroidered tropical flowers.
|TEMPERLEY LONDON SHOW AND INVITE|
Gareth Pugh was an absolute blast with the designer's signature wackyness shining through like the bronze pennies scattered across the runway. With latex leggings, Campino stripes and star-shaped eye make-up the models were definitely disco-ready!
|TEMPERLEY LONDON SS16|
Overall I felt that the collections this season (minus a small handful) were somewhat subdued; it definitely wasn't a season of bold florals and acid colours. Most consisted of a muted palette with variations of white or black dominating the catwalks. Cuts were long and predominantly loose with floaty fabrics compact with frills, ruffles and all the trimmings bringing in a soft, bohemian prairie vibe. Erdem, Temperley, Mother of Pearl, Preen and Simone Rocha all echoed this with a romantic softness.
|GARETH PUGH SS16|
Crochet and lace remained popular, and stripes are set to continue their reign over spots. Waists were accentuated (yay!) with some collections, such as DAKS, even going so far as to place belts over suit jackets, and using ribbons or fabric ties proved to be a popular method. There were hints of a carefree artistic experimentalism with mismatching "make do and mend" patchwork elements and neighbouring segments of clashing patterns. Florals also permeated the catwalks (I know right: "Florals for Spring? Groundbreaking."), however unlike previous years these were small, dainty and clustered on a background of dark midnight or white noon.
|ERDEM, SIMONE ROCHA, MOTHER OF PEARL & MARQUES'ALMEIDA SS16|
As wonderful as "light and fluffy" can be, at the moment I'm ready to put the SS16 collections to one side and look to the falling leaves, roasted chestnuts and mushroom hunts of the season ahead. As the sun sets, I open my window to breathe in that cool misty air. A lingering scent of bonfire smoke floats towards me, and my honey-brown moccasin slippered toes begin to dance in anticipation of all the autumnal wonders in store...
|ISSA, DAVID KOMA, JONATHAN SAUNDERS & MARY KATRANTZOU SS16|
Catwalk images taken from Vogue.co.uk
All other images/videos are my own
Labels: collections, Daks, David Koma, Erdem, Gareth Pugh, LFW, London Fashion Week, LOVE magazine, Mother of Pearl, Preen, Simone Rocha, SS16, Temperley, trends